Classic Cantonese Cooking, Worth Taking Time For

Flavourful House in Richmond Hill has earned a devoted following for Cantonese dishes that take time, patience and a practised hand. The restaurant is modest, but the cooking gives diners plenty to talk about, particularly those who remember these labour-intensive classics from family meals and banquets.

Chef Samuel Su Wei-jian grew up in rural Baiyun, Guangzhou, where his older brother worked as a Cantonese barbecue chef. Roast meats, slow-simmered soups and stir-fries were part of his childhood. He initially worked as an auto mechanic before turning to cooking, teaching himself through repeated practice. Those early tastes still guide what he serves today.

The Eight Treasure Winter Melon Soup is a good place to begin. Chef Su uses sea conch in place of frog legs, giving the broth a clean sweetness. Chicken wings stuffed with glutinous rice or shrimp paste show his care with preparation, while the Deep-Fried Duck with Taro pairs a crisp exterior with soft taro and tender duck. These are dishes whose appeal depends on getting each step right.

Fish dishes offer another measure of his skill. The Oil-Poached Marble Goby calls for careful control of the hot oil to achieve crisp skin while keeping the flesh tender. Steamed Eel with Dried Tangerine Peel and Black Bean Sauce takes a different approach, balancing the savoury sauce with the fragrance of chenpi.

For diners who grew up with Cantonese food, a meal here may bring back a familiar flavour or a dish they have not tasted in years. For newcomers, it is a chance to discover how much variety and skill this cooking holds. Chef Su gives these recipes the attention they deserve, keeping them on the table for another generation to enjoy.