A New Chapter for a Toronto Cantonese Classic

For more than two decades, Lai Wah Heen has been a familiar name in Toronto’s Cantonese fine-dining scene, known for elaborate dim sum and a dining room with a sense of occasion. New ownership in 2025 brought a change in kitchen leadership, with Executive Chef Hayden Sin (Sin Chung Ho) and Dim Sum Head Chef Victor Huang now guiding the restaurant.

Chef Sin brings more than 17 years of experience, including roles at leading hotels in China and South Korea. His strengths lie in wok cooking and seafood, with careful control of heat and seasoning that allows the ingredients to come through. His approach suits a restaurant whose reputation rests on the finer points of Cantonese technique.

Chef Huang’s dim sum career spans more than 23 years. Trained under Master Huang Xiaohong at Guangdong Yingbin Hotel, he went on to work in China, South Korea and Canada, including high-level banquet kitchens. His lobster dumplings with caviar and layered swan pastries show a precise hand, with delicate shapes and pastry work that make dim sum the highlight of the meal.

The dining room service does not always match the kitchen’s attention to detail, leaving some room for improvement. The food, however, gives diners a reason to return. With its new chefs building on a well-established Cantonese foundation, Lai Wah Heen remains a worthwhile address for those who appreciate the care behind a finely made dumpling or a well-executed seafood dish.