By Mia Stainsby
The Critics Choice Signature Dishes Awards highlight the 10 very best dishes you can order at Metro Vancouver’s Chinese restaurants. This list also includes three top dishes chosen by social media bloggers.
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Here are the winners of the 2016 Critics’ Choice Awards, with some of the judges’ comments.
Best of 2016: Critics’ Choice Signature Dish Awards
1. SALT AND PEPPER CRUSTED DUNGENESS CRAB
Landmark Hotpot House
4023 Cambie Street, Vancouver (604) 872-2868
The underrated kitchen at Landmark treats and prepares their famously high quality seafood with respect and finesse. The salt and pepper crusted Dungeness crab – concentrates the sweetness of the crab while preserving the delicacy of the tender flesh. The light crust provides just the right amount of finger licking spiciness to highlight the clean brininess of this local treat. It’s no wonder Landmark is perpetually packed.
2. SABLEFISH WITH SHREDDED PORK, LUFFA, PICKLED VEGETABLES IN CONGEE SOUP
Dynasty Seafood restaurant
#108-777 West Broadway, Vancouver (604) 876-8388
Dynasty is probably the best restaurant at truly celebrating local ingredients through a Chinese lens while incorporating West Coast influences of lightness. Luxuriantly rich whole sablefish is prepared using a traditional Teochew method of gentle simmering with preserved vegetables and finely shredded pork. If done right – the flesh is meltingly tender, while the remaining soup has a clean sweetness and depth from the pork; and the preserved vegetables provides a fresh lift to the whole dish.
3. STEAMED EGG WITH CLAMS
Shroom Restaurant
6555 Fraser Street, Vancouver (604) 568-7797
Chinese diners embrace texture like no other dining culture does. Here, a wobbly satiny egg custard melts on the tongue – like a perfectly set savory panna cotta. The clams and sweet soy sauce provides a backbone of seafood brininess – perfect for spooning over rice.
4. CHEF TONY’S SPECIAL CHARCOAL GRILLED DUCK
Chef Tony Seafood Restaurant
#101-4600 No.3 Road, Richmond (604) 279-0083
By using a mallard duck rather than the usual Pekin duck – the resulting roast duck has a slightly chewier texture that delivers sweeter gamier flavours. A smoky succulent wildness that is reminiscent of an old fashioned roasted goose – in keeping with the tastes of their monied clientele’s for the exotic.
5. CHICKEN WITH STICKY RICE IN CLAYPOT
Golden Eats Seafood Restaurant
2141 Kingsway, Vancouver (604) 336-3389
A labour intensive old fashioned banquet dish that one rarely sees anymore – a whole chicken is deboned and stuffed with sticky rice – the skin flash fried to a golden crispness. As with all Chinese dishes – the secret here is all about balance – crispy skin, while maintaining succulence in the flesh – sticky rice that is tender and yielding – but not wet or over cooked. A dish that builds a cohesive whole, while each element is cooked to individual perfection. Golden Eats’ version achieves a celebratory feel – a dish to be ordered with family and friends and enjoyed boisterously. A hole in the wall restaurant that’s worth exploring.
6. LAMB HOTPOT
The Jade Seafood Restaurant
8511 Alexandra Road, Richmond (604) 249-0082
Cooking as refined and subtle as this is found in only the finest of kitchens. Succulent tender lamb shoulder is combined with aromatics like scallions and ginger that defy usual conventions with regards to usual seasoning of lamb dishes. Calls out for a big fat Chateu Neuf Du Pape to create the ultimate Franco/Canto hybrid.
7. LAMB IN SOUP
Old Xian’s Food
#2010-8580 Alexandra Road, Richmond (604) 370-3888
Savoury broth with a real depth of flavour is achieved without shortcuts like MSG. Generous quantities of cloud ear fungus and sliced lamb bob in rich broth, perfect for dipping buns into.
8. BRAISED WINTER MELON WITH VEGETABLE AND MUSHROOM
Dynasty Seafood restaurant
#108-777 West Broadway, Vancouver (604) 876-8388
Faux bear paw made of succulent braised carved winter melon lays atop expertly sautéed greens. Healthy and delicious. The melon is gelatinous while greens are crisp. Innovative while being being outstandingly delicious.
9. TOFU SKIN WRAPPED MUSHROOMS WITH VEGETABLES
Hoitong Chinese Seafood Restaurant
#155-8191 Westminster Hwy, Richmond (604) 276-9229
Old school classic done with care and respect. Proof that while innovation is great, sometimes things become a classic because they are perfect. Slippery and crunchy, savoury and sweet all at the same time.
10. DURIAN EGGTART
Yue Delicacy Restaurant
8077 Alexandra Road, Richmond (604) 233-1219
Durian may be polarizing, but the eggtart with durian at Yue is lovely and subtle. Well made egg tarts are given renewed interest by the pleasant cleverness of the pleasing funk of durian added with a light touch.
Social Media Choice Awards WINNERs –
BEST TAIWANESE BRAISED PORK RICE
Corner 23
Photography by William Luk, www.mayowill.com
BEST HONG KONG-STYLE ROAST DUCK
Parker Place (Aberdeen) BBQ & Meat
Photography by Sherman Chan, Sherman’s Food Adventures
BEST SHANGHAI-STYLE DRUNKEN CHICKEN
Top Shanghai Cuisine Restaurant
Photography by William Luk, www.mayowill.com
Critics’ Choice Awards WINNERs –
3 dishes – Photography by William Luk, www.mayowill.com
SALT AND PEPPER CRUSTED DUNGENESS CRAB
Landmark Hotpot House
LAMB IN SOUP
Old Xian’s Food
TOFU SKIN WRAPPED MUSHROOMS WITH VEGETABLES
Hoitong Chinese Seafood Restaurant